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Den här artikeln innehåller reklamlänkar.
Ett samtal om hållbart mode med Emelie Olsson, ägare av badklädesmärket Scampi
Foto: Peter Cederling
Emelie Olsson har en lång bakgrund inom försäljning och PR i modebranschen och hann jobba för varumärken som Stella McCartney och Ralph Lauren innan hon 2015 bestämde sig för att köpa svenska badklädesmärket Scampi. Vi har pratat med Emelie om resan att förvandla Scampi till ett klimatpositivt och mer hållbart varumärke som idag tillverkar alla sina produkter av återvunnen nylon.
Berätta, hur började resan med Scampi?
– Jag har jobbat i modebranschen i 12 år och längtade efter att ha något eget. Som uppvuxen i Stockholm hade jag sett Scampi i sina glansdagar på 90-talet då det var som störst och sedan bevittnat hur varumärket liksom åldrats med sina tidigare ägare och med åren tappat i attraktionskraft.
– Jag kontaktade ägarna för att fråga om de var intresserade av att sälja bolaget till mig och fick presentera min vision om Scampis fortlevnad. Jag visste exakt vad jag ville göra med varumärket designmässigt och visionen om ett hundra procent hållbart och klimatpositivt varumärke var tydlig redan 2015 då jag tog över. Det första året renoverade jag butiken på Nybrogatan, utvecklade kollektionen för att nå även en yngre kund, nylanserade webben och satte igång arbetet med att byta ut alla material till återvunna material, därefter började jag planera för att bli ett klimatpositivt varumärke till 2019.
Om du kunde göra en förändring för hållbarhet i din egen bransch, för att göra det bättre, vad skulle det då vara?
– Jag skulle önska att det fanns en lag som reglerade vad för typ av material man fick använda till viss del i sin produktion, och att man var tvungen att investera i att förbättra hållbarheten inom all produktion/verksamhet löpande. I slutändan är det huvudsakliga problemet konsumtionen och där önskar jag verkligen att alla varumärken inte skulle fortsätta uppmana människor att konsumera så extremt mycket som de gör idag utan hellre ta sitt ansvar och producera mindre och färre kollektioner i hållbara material och gärna kompensera för de utsläpp som de skapar.
– Det hela handlar ju om att konsumenten behöver lära sig mer om hur produktion faktiskt går till. Kunde jag göra någonting så skulle jag önska att jag kunde hjälpa till att lära konsumenter att det faktiskt finns alternativ till fast fashion och förklara hur mycket det kostar på vår jord att faktiskt vara del av det där och handla från de stora kedjorna. Jag är övertygad om att kunder skulle göra mer hållbara val om de bara förstod vidden av den klimatproblematik som uppstår vid produktionen av kläder och mode.
Om du fick drömma, vem skulle du helst se i badkläder signerade Scampi?
– Gisele Bündchen. Inte för hennes skönhet utan för att hon är väldigt engagerad i hållbarhetsfrågor. Bland annat är hon global ambassadör för FN:s miljöprogram och har använt sitt kändisskap till att göra skillnad, inte minst i sitt hemland Brasilien. Hon och hennes far startade bland annat ett stort projekt för att implementera hållbarare jordbruk i Brasilien och hon har även startat ett stort projekt för att inspirera unga flickor att engagera sig i miljöfrågor.
Vad är det mest utmanande med att driva ett hållbart företag?
– Det är dyrt. Hållbara och återvunna material är i vårt fall mer än dubbelt så dyra som konventionella material och att producera i Europa likaså. Det kan vara frustrerande när stora kedjor gör kopior av våra produkter i Asien med billiga tyger till en fjärdedel av priset. Att få ut informationen om vad vi gör till slutkonsumenten är det svåraste, varför vi är ett bättre alternativ. Visst finns många sociala kanaler idag att informera kunden om vårt hållbarhetsarbete och vår sustainable practice men tyvärr är inte alltid intresset så stort som man hade önskat.
Berätta kort om hur tillverkning av Econyl går till?
– Idag görs många badkläder av polyamid eller polyester, två starka material som passar bra för ändamålet då de båda suger åt sig lite vatten och torkar snabbt. Den stora nackdelen är deras negativa miljöpåverkan: båda materialen kräver stora mängder energi och kemikalier i produktionen samt släpper ut mikroskopiska plastpartiklar i vattnet när de tvättas, vilket bland annat kan skada fortplantningsförmågan hos fiskar (och som i slutändan hamnar i våra kroppar när vi äter fisk). Econyl tillverkas genom att man samlar upp plast i form av exempelvis gamla fiskenät och plastflaskor från haven och genom en hållbar renings- och förnyelseprocess, återskapar ren nylon från plasten. Denna nylon kallas för Econyl och kan återvinnas i all evighet, utan att tappa kvalitet och utan att behöva använda nya resurser från vår planet.
Finns det någon i branschen som inspirerar dig och varför?
– Reformation. Det är pionjärer vad gäller hållbarhet. Scampi är klimatpositivt i form av att vi kompenserar för alla våra växthusgasutsläpp 120% och vi säljer också klimatkompensation på hemsidan för exempelvis flygresor men Reformation är klimatneutrala även i sin användning av vatten, alla deras material är hållbara och de är supertransparenta i sitt arbete. Alla producerande modebolag borde titta på hur de jobbar med hållbarhet.
Vad är något du önskar att folk visste om hållbart badmode?
– Många tror att återvunna material håller sämre än ”nya” eller ”virgin” material men i vårt fall håller det faktiskt längre än konventionella badkläder. Men att det kallas hållbart innebär inte heller att det är perfekt ur en miljövinkel. Om man inte vill påverka klimatet negativt så skall man faktiskt inte konsumera alls. Det är hållbarhet på riktigt. Det är sanningen oavsett om det gäller badmode eller vanligt mode. Men om man måste köpa exempelvis en ny baddräkt så vill jag i alla fall kunna vara det bästa alternativet på marknaden ur en miljöaspekt. Badkläder av Econyl håller mer än fem gånger så länge än badkläder av vanlig nylon vilket ökar till hållbarhetsgraden i sig eftersom man inte behöver köpa nya badkläder varje sommar.
Om vi blickar framåt. Hur ser framtiden för Scampi ut?
– Jag satsar stort digitalt och globalt framåt. Scampi kommer att fortsätta att säljas på fina varuhus och butiker som NK, Åhlens och Libertys i London etc. men den stora satsningen ligger online. Att bli bäst online på badmode och kunna vara det bättre alternativet året runt i större utsträckning än idag via nätet är mitt mål.
Modebranschens framtid är mer hållbar än den ser ut idag, varför arbetar inte fler märken för en mer hållbar framtid?
– Svår fråga, jag tror att det är trögheten i ekonomiska system och större bolag som är problematiken här. Jag vill i alla fall tro att många fler vill arbeta mer hållbart men att de inte har möjligheten att ställa om sin produktion och hela verksamhet och företagskultur på grund av storleken och komplexiteten som är inbyggd i systemet. Ingen vågar se en minskad omsättning och vinst under en period för att fokusera på att ställa om för en bättre framtid men sanningen är att om man inte gör det nu så kommer det troligen inte finnas någon plats alls kvar på marknaden för dessa varumärken längre fram.
Något tips och råd till andra som drömmer om att starta eget varumärke och följa sina drömmar?
– Go for it! Våga satsa men det är viktigt med en tydlig vision av vad det är du vill skapa och att ha en tydlig plan. För mig är det inte bara en produkt, för mig är det ett nytt sätt att tänka, en livsstil, ett hopp om att kunna inspirera andra varumärken att välja samma väg och tänka mer långsiktigt och hållbart. Om du har planer på att starta något i dessa tider tycker jag absolut att en hög grad av hållbarhet skall vävas in i affärsidén i sig. Jag vill tro att tiden då man producerade bara för att det var kul att designa och sälja är förbi. Alla måste ta sitt ansvar för att vi ska kunna lämna ifrån oss en bättre värld till våra barn och barnbarn.
Och till sist, hur spenderar du helst en ledig dag?
– Det blir definitivt någon aktivitet i naturen tillsammans med familjen och gärna toppat med en härlig måltid. Vi bor på Bali sen ett år tillbaka och där blir det mycket surfing och andra utomhusaktiviteter, man sover ju egentligen bara inomhus där. Vårt andra hem ligger i Åre och där gäller samma sak, mycket aktiviteter på fjället, skidåkning, cykling, vandring. Det är min kärlek till naturen som gjort att jag brinner så mycket för just hållbarhet. Jag har även två små barn som kommit sedan jag tog över Scampi så all min lediga (och o-lediga) tid går åt till att leka med dem.
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